Voyage of the Good Ship Westward

Noon Posiition – 26th

Departed FatuHiva 1700h/25th (Hanavave Bay—more scenic than seductive) for Tuamotus where ETA Rangiroa 29th a.m. (after Takaroa drive-by 28th).

26th noon Position 11 48.4S/140 36.2W Days run (19hrs)135 mi in steady southeast trade-winds with Genoa & spanker past few hours.  Temp 85 humidity 69 seatemp 87 under clear skies, occasional squalls, Southern Cross & approaching full moon.

Westward

Our shore-side visits since NukaHiva compromised by small anchorages (cluttered with cruisers awaiting diminution of strong, squally SE trades) and rocky landings.   Spent two nights off scenic UaPou, kayaking in lovely west coast shelter (Vaiehu Bay) but with barely a landing for Marley’s island business. 

19th ran overnight to Atuona on HivaOa for brief beer replenishment (Hinano @ $3.50/can!) whilst Westward jogged up/down the lumpy anchorage off tiny, shallow Atuona harbor; Westward seems too large for much of the Marquesas!
 
Thence to the southwest corner of Tahuata Isl. on 20th afternoon, where discovered scenic Hapatoni Bay & village (population 80) for festival week-end started yesterday with brief French frigate visit (warmly welcomed), administrator speeches & a crafts display/sale—-which we were glad & eager to support after enjoying a fashion show by village ladies under torrential rain pounding the tin roof of the village’s modest, but gaily adorned meeting-shelter.

Tahuata’s populus (600 souls, all saved) to arrive today for three-days of food, music, dance doubtless against a backdrop of prayer & social intercourse.  We’ll attend/participate in strength . . our warm reception enhanced by our digital cameras & HP printer!

Off to FatuHiva in a day or two, thence the Tuamotus; watch this space for further news!

Westward

p.s. bring insect repellent when you visit the Marquesas!

Today returned to Taiohae, for fuel, after a delightful circle of NukaHiva—-highlighted by abundant fresh Wahoo, hiking a winding canyon to the 1000 ft Viapo waterfall and another hike to charming Hatiheu village/Bay (west adjacent to Anaho). 

With scenic, sheltered anchorages only a few hours apart, fair trade-winds & a welcoming populus, seems likely the Marquesas will evolve to a popular, exotic sailing/vacation destination of the new millenium (as did the West Indies near 100 years ago?).  Hurry! What’s here cannot long endure.

We’ll travel an hour tonight or Sunday to Taipivai, then early Monday to UaPou (25 miles south; three weeks in these islands may barely suffice.

Westward

Anchored 6th/1915 hrs local-time (GMT -9.5 hrs) at Taiohae Bay on the south coast of Nuka Hiva Island in the Marquesas Island group of French Polynesia after a flawless 16 day passage of 2645 miles from Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, via Isla Clarion, to Nuka Hiva.   

Westward consumed only 1570 gals of fuel (both main engine & auxiliary generator) of the 2485 gallons of fuel with which we departed Cabo San Lucas—-for an astonishing consumption of 0.59 gallon/mile!

Westward is now 3500 miles (as the crow-flies) from Seattle, after a journey that has seen another 5009 miles pass under her keel.

Attached is a photo of Westward at anchor this morning plus some high-lights of our last day’s sail, together with a photo of Westward’s crew, as assembled this afternoon.

We’ll remain in Taiohae to enjoy a week-end liberty for all hands; on Monday we’ll take fuel & depart for a clockwise tour of Nuka Hiva——visiting the ancient & remote Bays of Taioa (Hakatea), Anaho & Taipivai.  We expect to spend the month of June in the Marquesas before proceeding south to spend July in the Tuamotu Islands of French Polynesia.  From the Tuamotus we will proceed to Tahiti & the Society Island group for the month of August.

We wish our experiences could be more widely shared and will do our best to keep you posted on our continuing adventures (to the extent that doing so is not incompatible with our numerous & varied recreational ambitions!).

In the meantime, this sent with very best wishes from all onboard.  We consider ourselves most fortunate, in every respect, to be here, doing what we are doing (though this statement is not to imply any reservations-about or concerns-with Westward——this able & most remarkable vessel upon which we have just crossed the Pacific!).

Westward

8 13.2S/139.21.3W Days run 184 mi CMG 211M under a press of sail.
Remaining: 58 mi (NukaHive SE corner) Fuel 925g.  Temp 82 humidity 73% Seatemp 87.

Overnight under four lowers (plus a wheelhouse awning,) with the meter kissing 8+ knots, NukaHiva bound for a sunset arrival Taiohae anchorage.

The sails & sheets are strained, but the rigs indifferent & the cleats are holding; the mighty Atlas is loafing—-stack temps in the mid-500′s @ 250 RPM (a power-stroke every 1/8th second)!  Moving this ancient, 250,000lb sled at 8 knots on a beam-reach with a steady 10 deg. heel, burning only 0.6 gal/mile, is a sight to behold and an experience to remember! Oh boy, whatta ride!

Westward

Fair trades & diminished swell enabled todays’s creative setting of 4th lower—-a Rhodes 19 spinnaker (aka: side-winder) set 90 deg from vertical—with tack at the port rail, clew to the fore-halyard, head sheeted aft of the fore-mast to the std’d-fwd boat-davit (yarded outboard).  The circus is coming to town?

All results in a steady 7.7+, at 210M, under tropic sunset, with passing line-squalls & brightening Southern Cross.  UaHuka bound, under a cloud of sail, where ETA remains 6th/1630L with all hands eager for Land Ho! on Teresa’s morning watch,.

Westward

Noon Position – 5th

5 55.6S/137 18.6W – Days run 179m CNG 211M; remaining: 222mi (to UaHuka) 1050g; temp. 82 Humidity 75 seatemp 86. Now steering 207 for UaHuka where ETA 6th/1630 local and awaiting overnight anchoring permission.

SE swell moderating, wind holding easterly @ 15k-20k supporting three (3) sails & making a fine last day (which started with fresh-squeezed OJ & fresh-baked poppy-seed bread!).  Alls well.

Westward

Noon Position – 2nd

00 17.6N/131 46.5.0W Days-run 166m CMG 216M remaining: Fuel 1350 miles 741; Temp 81 humidity 76% sea-temp 81.5. 

Winds backing to easterly but, alas, moderating to a point of diminished utility.  Winds of desired direction & speed are a rare & wonderous thing, we have yet to experience them (but when they come, we’ll be shooting for a 240mi day!)!  Crossed Equator at 1545h, commemorated event with a deep-water (15,000ft?) swim @ 132.01.3W longitude. ETA NukaHiva 7th p.m.

Westward