Voyage of the Good Ship Westward

A quiet Sunday at anchor in Moorea’s Opunaho Bay (once named Papetoi Bay);  we quickly tired of marina life and came to this (still) lovely bay after four days in Tahiti. 

We look forward to being here quietly for another week—–sailing, kayaking, bike riding (and attending Westward maintenance!) then will return to Papeete to meet daughter Margot who is joining us for a much-anticipated visit and for voyage to BoraBora.

In Papeete we will now moor at the Quay du Yachts on the city-front—-also much changed & modernized from the days when it was the primary yacht & copra-boat moorage in Tahiti.  The Quay du Yachts is convenient to the wonderful  Papeete public market & the city’s shops & restaurants; past security problems at the Quay seem to have been addressed (with watchmen) and there we will surely feel that we are in the South Pacific (vs. the marina which, as mentioned, felt like San Diego).

Westward

Arrived Papeete, Tahiti yesterday; all fast stern-to at Marina Taina @1730 hrs—-per attached sunrise photo today (with Moorea in the background behind a sea of anchored plastic boats!).

It will take some time to digest all the changes here [looks more like a SanDiego marina than the Tahiti waterfront & countryside last experienced 43 years ago!] but we’re now off to see downtown Papeete & give change a try.

Westward

Persistent easterly trade-winds (20+ knot) continually frusatrated our plans for further, comfortable Rangroa/Tuamotu cruising.  Today determined to put the wind to work for us and departed Rangiroa mid-day for Tahiti—-where ETA 1700 hrs Thursday.  Its good to be at sea again!

Westward

Nine wonderful days with the Madsen family aboard at Rangiroa ends today, enabling us to send them off with this update and a few photos taken since NukaHiva—-the last place we had internet access allowing upload of images.

We’ve lingered long at Rangiroa (world’s 2nd largest atoll) but explored it fully and had it’s crystal clear waters & outer reaches entirely to ourselves.  Reef walks, snorkeling & hooka-diving, fishing, kayaking & sailing have filled our days.  We set awnings & hung hammocks to create Westward Adventure Camp for the Madsen girls and all enjoyed a fresh-fish campfire dinner there one evening (with s’mores!).

This week we’ll continue southeast to some other, more remote Tuamotu Island for a few days visit.  We’re seeking an atoll off the beaten path, smaller than Rangiroa but with a navigable pass and, ideally, no airport.  Perhaps there we’ll find closer communion there with those who call these islands home.

Barring some unforeseen Tuamotu temptation (these atolls are, geographically, quite alike), we should be in Tahiti & Moorea within ten-days.  We’re eager for the sheltered waters beneath of their volcanic peaks, for their hustle & bustle (which we once feared might offend!), for fresh produce and some restaurants, not to mention hardware stores & other shopping.

Westward

Ten days here have flown with some out-island visits, ongoing maintenance, and Madsen family’s 6th arrival.

July 9, 2007:

Rangiroa’s out-islands now virtually uninhabited (but for day-boats with tourists), consequent of the demise of the copra industry & the attractions of the island’s two metro centers—–each modest, but with electricity, roads, cars, tourism & pearl-farm employment, satellite dishes, etc.
 
We’ve left all that behind & are now on a quest for the ideal anchorage/beach for our grand-daughters, numerous water-toys & Westward Adventure Camp.

Regret we’re unable to send photos via our onboard (radio) internet connection but Madsens will forward some upon returning S.F. mid-July.  We’ll then continue our Tuamotu explorations for a week or two before heading to Tahiti.

Westward