Voyage of the Good Ship Westward

Arrived Suva, Fiji 25th/0800 after a pleasant crossing (of the International Dateline) from PagoPago.  Mid-way, we cancelled our stop at SavuSavu in order to expedite Teresa’s return to Seattle (tonight) from Nadi—for which we leave shortly by express bus.. 

The crossing was marked by fine weather and a waxing moon, with periodic squalls and occasional, torrential rain.  A minor glitch (in our new-age whiz-bang, high-tech, Starship Enterprise, digital, computerized electronic navigation system) necessitated reliance upon our (back-up) paper charts—–and return to the discipline of position plots, Light-List & Sailing Directions . . . . rusty skills that were good to refresh!

A significant moment occurred at the 0300 change-of-watch on the 22nd, when relieving the Mate whom I found dressed in a skirt & pearls!  Nothing in the Blue Jacket’s Manual to prepare a weary old mariner for this:

Impressions of Suva, and her polygenetic population, are thus-far quite favorable . . . .  but we’re not in Polynesia any more, Dorothy!  Suva is a vibrant port city with steady traffic of fishing, inter-island, yachting and international vessels; we’re anchored in their midst.  A fringe benefit of traveling onboard Westward is that no one need go further than the back-deck to look at ships & boats . . . .  always a favorite traveling past-time for me.

Our first 24 hours here have been characterized by monsoon-like rains; if these continue, I will be challenged to address the project-list intended to occupy me aboard for the ten days before I follow Teresa to Seattle.

We’ll both return to Westward from Seattle late-October—–when our adventures, and these updates, should continue on a journey onwards thru Fiji’s Islands, Vanuatu & the Solomons.

All’s well aboard
Westward

Arrived American Samoa 17th morning to courteous & efficient entry (in)formalities.  Three days in PagoPago were full with extensive provisioning for months ahead; in the course of these we became acquainted with the land (lush & lovely) and the people—consistently welcoming & friendly.  Daybreak today (20th) departed Pago for SavuSavu, Fiji (Vanua Levu) with new-found appreciation & affection for this special U.S. Territory. 

Tonight we’ve 8200 miles under Westward’s keel, 600 miles to Fiji with clear skies, waxing moon and gentle easterlies o’er a lazy SE swell; it couldn’t get a whole lot better!

Westward

Cleared Suwarrow Isl. pass (Northern Cook Islands)1735h/14th bound for PagoPago where ETA 17th morning. 

Suwarrow (pop. 6—two Park rangers & their four boys) distinguished by its remote-ness, though not its isolation—-we shared the anchorage with a dozen other friendly cruisers, with the EEC well-represented, Westward flying the only U.S. flag!).  Cook Islander Rangers John & Veronica led near twenty vagabonds to the atoll’s breeding-grounds where witnessed abundant nesting & squawking Frigate Birds, Sooty Terns, Tropic Birds & Boobies.

Our 48 hour Suwarrow visit further highlighted by the past-midnight escape of our Avon tender which chaffed-thru its painter and merrily scampered, ahead of 20+ knot trades, for near 4 miles to the atolls western edge—-where snagged upon a coral ruin at the surf-line, thereby frustrating her apparent ambition to continue seaward independently.  The loss discovered early-morn,  and the Rangers’ skiff and their prompt & capable assistance saved the day!  The durable Avon/Honda combo returned to Westward under her own steam with but one deflated hull-chamber.  A quick tube-patch tomorrow & she’ll be right again, but surely we must keep a closer eye upon her!

Brisk trades behind us tonight, favorable for some sailing on the morrow—-to help us speed the 450 miles to Pago.  All’s well.
Westward

After three splendor-filled months in the Marquesas, Tuamotus & Society Islands, and a delightful 9-day visit from Matt & Karyn, we now take our leave of these wondrous islands—–changed indeed over the forty-seven years I’ve known them, but still enchanted.

Matt & Karyn joined us in BoraBora on the 25th for our return to Papeete—-to take fuel, lubes & fresh stores (& Hinano!) before our departure for Suvarov Island (in the northern Cook Islands) & PagoPago.

Our southbound journey to Papeete took us also to Tahaa, Raiatea & Moorea, where we covered all the highlights plus lots of swimming with critters, visiting a Tahaa vanilla farm, and abundant fine dining—-both onboard & ashore.

From Papeete, our capable ship-mate and friend, Carlos, returned home to LaPaz, Mexico after wonderful adventures with us and contributing mightily to our enjoyment and to Westward’s ongoing maintenance; we shall miss him, and hope for his early return.  Carlos’ return home was not without complication, because of his expired Mexican passport and local officialdom’s unwillingness to allow him to transit the States on his Seaman’s Book.

Despite Matt & Kayrn’s valiant efforts (and a boarding pass & thru tickets to LaPaz), Carlos was disagreeably prohibited by immigration from joining them on their LAX flight Sept. 3rd . . . . . these the authorities who allowed him three months in the country on the strength of his seaman’s book!  Carlos was sent back to the ship at midnight, told he could only leave the country onboard Westward and was no longer permitted ashore; we faced a near-certainty he would face similar challenges in PagoPago & Fiji (like Carlos on the MTA!

The next day brought continued obstinacy from the local bureaucracy.  Only with the assistance LAN Chile & a “Saf Conduit” document from the Chilean Consulate could we construct an avenue for his departure that allowed the bureaucrats to back-down from their ridiculous Gallic perch.  Carlos departed late on the 5th for Los Cabos—-via Easter Island, Santiago & Mexico City! 

Westward sailed Papeete within an hour of seeing Carlos safely past immigration & security (tho even this was not without one, final bureaucratic hesitation!).  Times have changed, Seaman’s Books & Z-cards are now passe’ for travel; Moral: have a valid passport, and don’t leave home without it!

A highlight of our Papeete visit was shifting to the bustling inter-island cargo docks for fuel.  Westward was always well received in cosmopolitan Papeete, she was adored by the longshoreman & sailor habitu’s of this salty side of town.  Our fueling afternoon was filled with drive-by visits & “thumb’s-up” from workers who, in years long past, had sailed & loaded wooden vessels of Westward’s vintage & propulsion; it was a delight!

After fueling was completed, we shifted the busy, modern city-front of Papeete for our last few hours in town.

We cleared-outward and sailed at midnight for Suvarov, 800 miles distant.  We have snuck-in a (hopefully) under-the-radar whistle-stop at the lovely Taravana Yacht Club on Tahaa—from which, after dinner ashore tonight, we’ll head to sea.  We’re sending this update via our last internet connection until PagoPago—–where ETA 18th September.

New friends & memories abound, all is indeed well with us!
Westward

Has it really been two weeks since we checked-in?  These islands, and the pleasure of sharing them with daughter Margot, do distract!

HUAHINE
A relaxing time here for kayaking & snorkeling in an isolated bay, with little contact ashore save for a lovely, and substantial, Sunday lunch ashore.  To maximize our daylight hours in the islands, we sailed before dawn for Raiatea. It was a good exercise in night-time navigation—six miles inside the Huahine reef in a narrow, but now well-marked channel.  Such a departure was impossible, or at least imprudent in days of yore with but lead-line & compass; however, with radar, GPS, sonar, fathometer, digital charts, spot-light and a half-dozen watchful eyes, it was a breeze (though never to be taken lightly!).

RAIATEA
We confined our brief visit to the now-thriving town of Uturoa—-French Polynesia’s 2nd largest city.  Uturoa is small by any measure, but a nonetheless bustling center for the three proximate Society Islands of Huahine, Raiatea & Tahaa. It is distinctly more Polynesian (vs. French) than Papeete and quite capable of providing one more perfect pareau & shell necklace, bracelet or accessory . . . . plus fresh garden fruits & produce and the ubiquitous & fresh French bread–a staple of these islands (@ $0.60 a loaf, the last remaining bargain here!).

TAHAA
After only a few hours in Uturoa, we made our way, north a few miles across the shared lagoon, to Tahaa where we were warmly welcomed at the well-run Taravana Yacht Club located in a southwest-facing bay—-perfect for our sailing dingy, kayaking and snorkeling & hooka-diving.  A small, delightful (French-family run) Tahitian Black Pearl farm/jewelry adjacent to the yacht club was a further attraction (and temptation) whose necklaces & ear-rings we were unable to resist . . . . . Nancy Pelosi, move over!

BORA BORA
After a delightful evening Polynesian dance show at the Taravana YC, from Tahaa we took another early departure to BoraBora for a sunrise approach to this most magical & legendary of islands.  Though we lingered after her, we had little more than a day together on BoraBora before Margot’s return to Seattle; but there was enough time for a bicycle tour, a tiny bit more shopping, and a delicious dinner ashore at the infamous, and quite well-run, Bloody Mary’s restaurant.

BoraBora, despite only commuter-flight connections with Papeete & the outside world, seems now to exist for international tourism—–French, U.S., Italian, German, Japanese seem everywhere.  The abundance of hotels, good restaurants, shops & tours could be off-putting, but the industry provides vitality and, if you look past the acres of on-the-water bungalows, BoraBora remains a dramatically beautiful island.  We’?re we’re oft fore-warned of a chilly reception here for “cruisers”, but that has not been our experience.

MAUPITI
Restless with civilization’s crowds & abundant conveniences in BoraBora, we sailed four hours west to Maupiti—-the oldest and most isolated of the Society Island.  Maupiti’s isolation is occasioned by a narrow, breaker-prone pass (world-renowned surf spot!), a tricky channel into the town, and the community’s admirable commitment to resist the tempting offers of large-scale tourism development.  There are neither on-the-water bungalows on Maupiti, nor jet-skis; only a few isolated pensions around the lovely lagoon that surrounds this dramatic, ancient isle—-where bicycles & scooters far outnumber autos.  Maupiti’s self-imposed isolation was not a resent full choice; the community is welcoming & friendly, with civic-pride evident in every home & building.  There were few French or Chinese in evidence, making the island among the most purely Polynesian we have visited; and the local economy seems somehow to work (jobs cleaning hotel-rooms are abundant in nearby BoraBora?).

BORA BORA

We returned to Bora Bora last night; in a few hours son Matt, and his partner Karyn, will arrive to share our return passage to Papeete—-from which they will depart on Sept. 3rd (together with our greatly esteemed deck-hand, Carlos, who joined us in LaPaz in April and is now eager to return to his family there).  Carlos will be missed, both as a capable seaman and a worthy friend & ship mate.  He speaks of rejoining Westward somewhere along our future path, and will always be most welcome.  Vamos a ver!

On September 5th or 6th, with full-fuel, Westward will continue on her eponymous course, westward to American Samoa and to Fiji. 

After seven months, and over 8000 miles, since sailing Seattle in February, with only two brief visits home in March & May, Teresa will return home from PagoPago late-Sept.  Hugh will take Westward on to Fiji, then likewise return to Seattle, early-October, for two to three weeks, once the vessel is suitable secure in Fiji.  We shall return to Westward, as October wanes, to continue our journey northwest through the Solomon Islands to the Caroline Islands . . . . back in the northern hemisphere & clear of the South Pacific hurricane season by year-end.  2008 should see Westward in the Marianas & Japan before a homeward course, through Alaska, to home by late-summer.

All’s well,
Westward