Guadalcanal, Savo Island, Cape Esperance, Tulagi, Iron Bottom Sound, The Slot . . . . .
Near 40,000 lives were lost (Allied & enemy) in more than six months of fighting for control of the last airfield started by the Japanese (June 1942) to complete their northern encirclement of Australia & New Zealand.
Lives were lost in successive, and near continuous, fighting on land, at sea, and in the air; lives were lost to disease, and even to starvation, in this landmark battle (August 1942-February 1943) which “started when the whole course of the Pacific conflict seemed to hang in the balance” and ended with an allied victory “that ultimately proved to be the Pacific war’s true turning point”. – (Robert Ballard’s “The Lost Ships of Guadalcanal”)
But for Henderson airfield, started by the Japanese and completed by our Seabees, Honiara was only a sea-side jungle lowland in 1942. Now the (unattractive) capitol of the Solomon Islands, Honiara sprouted from Allied infrastructure built-up, following victory on Guadalcanal, to support the subsequent campaign north to Japan. Only minimal traces of Honiara’s wartime past remain.
Smaller Tulagi, twenty miles north across “Iron Bottom Sound”, was the pre-war center of the British Solomon Islands Protectorate—-from which the British were fast-evicted by the Japanese following Pearl Harbor. A brief, but intense Allied invasion secured Tulagi in August 1942, but bombardment obliterated any trace of its colonial past; Henderson Field on Guadalcanal was the focus of the Guadalcanal campaign, Tulagi was, and is, near forgotten.
The deeps of Iron Bottom Sound are graveyard now to near 50 warships and their sailors, both Allied & Japanese.
Beyond a few handsome memorials to the fallen and a few, scattered “private museums” of rusted relics, time & the jungle have claimed most visible reminders of the war in the Solomons.
There are precious few reminders of the grim chapter of world history played out in the Battle for Guadalcanal; but those who gave their lives in the “The Necessary War” (Ken Burns – The War) that others might be free, they must not be forgotten.
Westward & her crew, with solemnity & gratitude, showed their respect for the fallen by making the traditional U.S. Navy “S” turn as we crossed Iron Bottom Sound to discover the now independent Solomon Islands of today; in this brief undertaking we have been delightfully rewarded. The outer-islands & their peoples have proven a wonderful & refreshing counter-point to the solemnity of our Guadalcanal visit.
The Solomon Islands are an undisputedly poor country, limited in natural resources and struggling to overcome the economic set-backs from ethnic conflicts that plagued the country for near a decade from the late ’90′s.
The Islands, high & low, are lush & scenic; the greatest asset appears to be its provincial peoples—-uniformly (in our experience) handsome, proud, polite, well-spoken and of initiative & enthusiasm.
Tulagi is a fine natural harbor with many charms & attractions—–foremost of which for me was discovery of the boatyard where Celestino Ofota’a (shown here with his younger brother) is building (of native hardwoods with hand-hammered copper fastenings) two stout & handsome trading schooners (92ft & 94ft length x 25ft beam—-the capacity of each Celestino estimates at “2,500 to 3,000 bags (100 kilo) of Copra”!).
Construction of these two vessels started about four years ago; the ethnic strife and the attendant, weak Solomon’s economy have delayed their completion—-which is now, hopefully, only about a year away. I’ve separately e-mailed WoodenBoat Magazine urging their consideration of a story on Celestino’s remarkable project & boat-building career; I intend next to seek assistance for Celestino with financing for their completion.
From Tulagi we ran west, overnight, to the Russell Islands and anchored Sunday fortuitously, albeit quite accidentally, off the small, remote & charming village of Kurumulun. Our visit at Kurumulun was greatly enhanced by Spencer’s mid-day guitar performance in the village (generously proposed by his proud father!). Spencer’s talent & generosity was rewarded with a village dance & magical concert with traditional pan-pipes.
The word “memorable” doesn’t begin to describe our brief Kurumulun visit!
Another overnight run took us further west and briefly to the tiny town of Seghe (at the southern-end of New Georgia Island) from which Teresa caught the early-morning flight, a true ‘bush” experience for an overnight in Honiara before departing Tuesday on her long journey to Port Vila, Nadi, LAX & home (where she should be arriving as I write this) to start preparation for our family Christmas/New Year on Kauai. Teresa is but two days gone & sorely missed; but her many important roles aboard have been ably filled by our new & capable shipmates. It is grand to have a full & enthusiastic crew after near two months & 2,000 miles with only three (& Marley) onboard!
On Monday, we continued directly on to the fabled Marovo Lagoon & the small island village of Telina—–home to the finest of Solomon wood-carvers. Westward’s distinction, our eager & generous acquisition of carvings (ebony, palm, & rose wood, and whale-bone scrimshaw) plus Spencer’s generous recitals (both onboard & in the village) and other generosities made for a warm & friendly reception during this brief 24 hour stop.
Once again, “memorable” is inadequate!
Another lovely, overnight run brought us to Gizo, the humble Capitol of the Western Province on the island of Ghizo.
At daybreak we passed nearby Kasolo (“Kennedy”) Island—-to which JFK swam in 1943 after PT-109 was rammed & sunk by a Japanese destroyer.
The morning’s “scouting party” ashore returned with news of a local celebration here on Friday (7th); likely we’ll seek a quiet nearby anchorage ’til then . . . . to prepare for our equatorial crossing and to “recreate” before returning to Gizo for the festivities, final provisioning & our outward clearance for the Federated States of Micronesia 1000 miles to the north. Such weighty scheduling matters will be decided today, over lunch & a SolBrew, at the PT-109/Gizo Yacht Club just astern.
We are charmed-by & enchanted with the Solomons; as should be evident herein, all continues well aboard. . .
Westward
