Voyage of the Good Ship Westward

A week aboard Westward in the Chuuk Lagoon has somewhat returned us to her leisurely (but demanding) pace, accomplished a crew-change (with attendant adjustments & orientations) and enabled us to become somewhat acquainted with lovely & unique Chuuk Atoll—-encompassing 15 high islands (remnants of a once prominent, single volcanic spire), 192 islands and 80 islets within one of the world’s largest lagoons—-a total area of 822 square miles! 

In Chuuk’s vast lagoon there are more than sixty sunken Japanese ships, encrusted with coral, and lying at various depths—–remnants of Japan’s extensive occupation & fortification of the island from 1917 through WWII . . . .  and heavy U.S. aerial bombing of the atoll in Feb. 1944! 

The island was subsequently, and dubiously, governed under U.S. administration (as part of the post-war, U.N.-granted Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands), until obtaining it’s independence in the ‘80′s as one of four (4) states in the Federated States of Micronesia —– Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk & Yap.  Observations here suggest the adage “be careful what you wish for“. 

Chuuk’s infrastructure, remnant of U.S. days & the transfer to independence, is crumbling; its tourism relies almost entirely upon aged sunken relics whose condition & appeal will only diminish with time.  Jobs, other than with the state government centered on the island of Ueno, appear few & low-paying (but sufficient to have fostered a consumption-economy on Ueno).  The only pleasant by-product of Chuuk’s evident despair is that much of the population of the outer-islands has had little reason to abandon their traditional lives & simple habitations.  Unlike Rangiroa in French Polynesia (where we spent July ’07) the far reaches of the Chuuk lagoon are still inhabited by family groups apparently not attracted to the dubious temptation of more bustling Ueno.

The scenic beauty and close proximity of a multitude of destinations within the sheltered waters of the Chuuk lagoon appear ideal for kayaking eco-tours and/or for Mooring’s style sailing programs.  But such progress seems captive to a lack of capital and social, political & legal conflicts inherent in the merging of democratic & market-based principles with traditional leadership, customs & land-holding.  Until the day that scenery (and sunsets) rule, the future of the F.S.M. does not appear bright, solutions to its problems seem most elusive.

We are writing this on our way to Guam—–550 miles northwest of Chuuk.  It has been a boisterous passage with 20-25 knot NE trade-winds on the beam, accompanied by a rolling NE swell surely generated by fierce winter storms crossing the North Pacific, well above us.  In two days at Guam, “where America’s day begins“, we will strive to accomplish fueling, U.S.-style re-provisioning (Safeway!) and consular preparations for Japan before traveling overnight into the Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas—-there to revisit sites & friends from my youthful days (1968-71) living on Saipan in the employ of an adventurous, locally based shipping operation providing early shipping services, from the U.S. & Asia, throughout the Trust Territory.

Westward

Westward departed Phonpei December 21st for nearby & uninhabited Ant Atoll—-where the crew spent Christmas thru New Year’s Day “drift-snorkeling the reef entrance, catching fish, and enjoying a holiday social calendar dizzyingly full with four other (cruising) boats”.  And there were doubtless opportunities, on uninhabited Ant, for Marley, otherwise unwelcome ashore in the Federated States of Micronesia, to also have a holiday frolic or two ashore!

Westward departed Ant on New Year’s Day for Oroluk, less than 24 hours running, west of Ant.  At Oruluk they happily connected with a 3rd group of Kapingamirangi islanders—–this an extended family inhabiting this otherwise vacant atoll made available to the Kapngimirangi people (of “Kapanga” Village on Phonpei and of their namesake island—– both of which we visited in December) for cultivation and for supplementation of limited terrestrial holdings already out-stripped by an growing “Kapinga” population.  Westward’s visit was expected (the Kapinga coconut telegraph!), the crew enjoyed a warm welcome, crystal clear waters & abundant fish.

January 8th saw Westward navigate the shallow entrance at Losap on a wind-less day that made for a fine passage from Oroluk but for a “way hot” anchorage.  Understandably put-off by a local perception that a yacht such as Westward came to Losap on a humanitarian mission to fulfill all the local wants & needs, they sailed for Truk Lagoon the day following their arrival at Losap.

Truk Lagoon, and the numerous  volcanic spires which penetrate is clear & broad expanse, were approached with some apprehension.  Cruising guides, cruisers scuttle-but and travel guides all forewarned of difficult officials & procedures and a populus unwelcoming, at best.  All indications from Westward are that their early concerns were unfounded.  They’ve sent pleased reports from various islands within the lagoon, together with news of diving WWII shipwrecks & ruins, taking jungle treks and, recently, of visiting the northeast perimeter of Truk’s outer reef—-“much more active . . . than we’ve seen elsewhere in the lagoon”.   A few days spent on Ruo Island, also within the Truk Lagoon, was described as “Ruo has one (large) family on it, headed by an older and very energetic fellow. We were fattened on octopus and coconut crab. A downwind sailing rig they’d fashioned for their outboard skiff was very impressive”.

Westward also visited in Truk with Pacific Grace, the grand school-ship schooner out of Victoria B.C. currently on a June ’07 to June ’08 clockwise tour of the Pacific, one not unlike our own.  I watched Pacific Grace being built some years ago and we saw her from afar at Tahaa (French Polynesia) in August.  Since then the students aboard have carved a canoe in Papua- New Guinea and shared a pig-hunt & roast in Vanuatu; and they are currently spending Chinese New Year in Shanghai

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We’re compiling this on a flight from Seattle to Honolulu, from messages received from Westward during our seven-weeks absence from onboard—-for a familyChristmas/New Year’s on Kauai and three weeks in Seattle, the latter nicely interrupted by 12 days of splendid skiing in Montana.  Busy it was, and all to brief a time for catch-up with work and the comforts of home.  But also too long away from Westward, and a voyage which we are eager to continue—-in the weeks ahead to Guam, Rota, Tinian & Saipan before venturing further north, in early March, to Osaka.  The crossing to Osaka begins our lengthy tour of the Pacific’s volcanic Ring of Fire—through the Northern Marianas & Bonin Islands to Japan. 

After extended time in Japan & South Korea (old haunts in which we look forward to cruising leisurely & reconnecting with old friends), we’ll continue further along the Ring of Fire—–to Russia’s Kuril Island chain, thence through the Aleutians to the Alaska Peninsula, Prince William Sound and Southeast Alaska . . . . with Seattle, by late summer, as a goal.

We’ve dinner on Kauai tonight with Russ & Ann Nyborg—-shipmates of long-standing and, hopefully, same in future.  We return tonight to Honolulu to connect with fresh crew who will there be joining us—-Tom Doran & Gary Boothe, both of whom know Westward as engineers from Pacific Catalyst days of passenger-service in Southeast Alaska.  Tom, who also sailed to Costa Rica with Westward in ’95, will be with us to Japan; Gary, from Wyoming, will hopefully endure until we’re safely home in the Fall!

We fly on Friday aboard Continental Airlines island-hopping Micronesia service—with stops at Majuro, Kwajelain, Kosurae, and Phonpei before we land in Truk—–12 hours later, plus a day (for crossing the date-line west-bound).  And the four of us will be joined nedxt week in Truk by Gail Gladsen of Port Angeles who comes to lend a hand, until were home,  in the galley, on deck, or wherever else she’s needed.

We’ll do our best to keep in touch, with photos when possible, to share our adventures as they unfold.

Westward

P.S. A somehwat accidental by-product of our visit home was posting of a handsome new Westward website at: www.classicyacht.org/westward.  Our updates over the past year are again posted there, but re-indexed and supplemented with past & recent history of Westward.  Our thanks go out to Rick Etsell, the capable webmaster for the Classic Yacht Association for his creative & untiring efforts!